The Corrieyairick Pass (General Wade`s Military Road) 1939/1972/2001.
By Mike Jones.


On Friday 27th July 2001 we commenced a journey that had been planned at a camping weekend in Wem, Shropshire. We had mentioned the prospect of wild camping in Scotland and a few ideas came to fruition with a four day visit starting from Fort William.

The jouney was rail assisted and we used the Caledonian Overnight Sleeper operated by Scotrail. We awoke as the train traversed the largest expanse of peat bog of the great glen. Our arrival in the highlands was heralded by reasonable conditions over Ranoch Moor. However, as we approached the majestic mountain of Ben Nevis and Fort William station the mist was very low. Chris mentioned later that he had never seen the summit of Ben Nevis in all his travels to the area. The weather situation didn`t look good at this stage, but after a couple of hours spent in the town and an early lunch things improved.

We proceeded along the A82 towards Spean Bridge and then headed east towards our objective for this particular jounney "The Corrieyairick Pass". Reading an article in the Liverpool D.A. newsletter from 1939 the pass was described as the "Wildest Road in Britain."

My colleagues, Ian Magson, Tommy Cain and Chris Blackwood did not know what to expect but I had done this particular crossing as long ago as 1972. My own expectations of the route were certainly bordering on "not for the faint hearted". I knew the section that rose from the valley of the River Yarrick was the steepest section of roughstuff I had ever done. What I recalled was looking up at an ernormous amount of loose rock and having to pick our way through to the summit at 2567 feet above sea level.

Nevertheless, here I was thirty years later attempting a second crossing of the famous military road built in the 18th century on an existing drover`s road. It had been upgraded to connect two English garrisons at either end of the pass to act as a supply route to the troops. It gave them quicker access to the Great Glen in times of uprising.

We had decided to camp below the summit. Then we would have plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent scenery that unfolded along the valley following the River Spey. We climbed steadily from Laggan with the sun behind us and could make out the mountains in the far distance. This was the point of no return, the main road from Spean Bridge had been remote enough but this was now "no man`s land". We had the daunting prospect of 22 miles off the beaten track ahead of us.

The sound of marching troops could be imagined as we reached our first resting point of the evening. We were camped at the base of the climb where tarmac had ended, the way ahead veered through a steep sided valley to the north and disappeared out of sight. The scene ahead of us was dramatic as the evening light faded and silhouettes appeared in the mountains over 2500 ft. Mist came over their summits like long fingers reaching out as if to push us on our way tomorrow. What would the following day bring?

The evening was cold at this altitude and finally the stars appeared and we could even make out the red spot that indicated Mars on the horizon (visible only in 2001). We rested for the night and awaited our fate on this dramatic mountain; I still couldn`t help thinking of the travellers making their way on this road since it`s completion in 1725. Tomorrow would see three new visitors to its summit and one retracing his wheelmarks thirty years ago.

Ian was already awake and brewing tea when I got out of the tent at about 6 am. The scene all around us was so different from the previous evening. There was more cloud on the summits of the higher mountains but still good visibility. Mist was hovering in the deep valleys across the Yarrick and the uncertainty of the weather for the day was still on our minds.

Breakfast was enjoyed with helping of porridge. Then a good wash in one of the streams coming from the mountain invigorated us. I waited purposely until the valley to our right had cleared of early morning mist and then we were off. The cloud was about 2000 ft and still threatened to obliterate the way ahead and I just hoped that we would reach the summit in clear conditions.

Time seemed to be forgotten on this section and the evidence of erosion by the bleak winter conditions was prominent. The crossing of the river before the hairpins was more difficult because of the disappearance of one of General Wade`s bridges. In fact there had been a warning further down the trail. The previous wooden bridge was very precarious and at some future date will share the fate of the stone bridge. I looked up at the way ahead. There they were, the numerous sharp, steep hairpins that I remembered. However, some improvements must have been made since our last visit because I could actually see each change in direction clearly.

The previous crossing had proved energy sapping at this point. Having mentioned that, it still took about 1 hour to progress 1 mile as the 1939 handbook had stated. The encounter of two Austrian ladies walking from west to east was most unexpected and we exchanged greetings as we proceeded to the steepest part of the pass.

The views unfolded as we pushed our way to the summit and it seemed to take longer on this stretch than it had any other. To say that the scenery was outstanding would not do it justice. The whole area ahead was a combination of what Scotland is all about. It was as if we had been transported into another world; such was the ruggedness of the scene. The summit was left behind for the long decsent to Fort Augustus. Ian and Tommy hurtled down the rocky path ahead on their mountainbikes, an exhilarating adventure I`m sure. Chris was not far behind on his roadbike. For me it was time to take in the magnificent scenery that unfolded on this dramatic part of the Glenn.
I recalled the words from article "west to east" is the best way to do the Corrieyairick. There is no doubt that I would fully agree; both ventures over this highland pass have been in this direction. The heart and soul of many a cycle tourist must surely have been stirred by the grandeur of the 360 degree vista in this part of the highlands. The only way of capturing this feeling is to go and do the ride yourself. But I hope that if that is not possible you will be able to share my enthusiasm of two days on the "wildest road in Britain".

What cycling as all about is freedom to roam and surely this is what we had on this venture. Any Ordnance Survey map north of the border will surely indicate that to you. The routes are not easy and sometimes a great deal of planning has to be exercised. Food suplies have to be carried for at least 2 days when doing the major roughstuff routes, but what you gain is something hopefully you wont forget.

Every mile is different on the Corriyairick. You have a long river valley with wide sides for the first part and then you are drawn into the soul of the highlands through the middle section. After the summit is nearly all downhill and can be ridden in parts on a roadbike and nearly all on a mountainbike.

Both types of bicycle have their rewards and on this second occasion it was the return of my road machine. However, to call it a road bike is not technically true. Most of the major roughstuff routes I have travelled have been on this type of machine. It does involve more time but where the rider gains is the opportunity to stand and observe the fruits of their effort. This was a golden opportunity to take and we did it. Sometimes you can`t put things off untill next year. Opportunities come and go and my advice would be "do it now".

From Fort Augustus we followed the cycle routes that have been opened through the Glen and these are well worth the effort. Certainly not as spectacular as what we had done but nevertheless memorable. We even had time for a brew up on the side of Loch Lochy, the sort of things we had done on earlier tours.

I`m sure there are a lot of people who still remember carrying the Primus stove. A tradition that has been passed down amongst many cycletourists. My recommendation is keep the pedals turning and discover your own "Wildest roads in Britain".

Remember we`re making history all the time, create you own piece of it and happy cycling!

Jonesy.

Copyright Mike Jones 2002. This content is intellectual property. No part may be reproduced without permission by the author.