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Ride the Appalachians. By Alan Parker
(Part 1.)

This is Alan Parker's story of his bicycle tour of Eastern America in 1991.

The decision to go on a long distance bicycle adventure was made during the end of 1990. I was working full time as a fitness instructor in a Warrington Health Club, and when the owner of the club put me on short time, I thought the time was right to visit my sister Kath who has lived in America since 1968.

My marriage, after twenty years, and full time job had come to an end. I started making provisional plans by contacting my sister, checking my bank balance, and looking for a practical destination to cycle too. The Gulf War was nearly over, but I wondered when it would be safe to travel by air to America. Kath lives in the warm South East of America in Greenville, South Carolina, close to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Looking through back issues of C.T.C. magazines, I found a story by a member who had cycled around Nova Scotia, a lobster shaped piece of land connected to the Province of New Brunswick, in Eastern Canada. Reading the story, Liverpool, a small town by Halifax was mentioned. That did it for me, I would get a flight to Atlanta in Georgia, cycle to my sister's home, stay for a while, then cycle North to Halifax in Nova Scotia, and visit Liverpool.

I have always liked cycling in the hills, and checking the American map, realized the Appalachian Mountain Route would take me from Georgia to Maine, then on to Nova Scotia. I needed advice on cycle friendly routes and accommodation. I contacted "The League of American Wheelman", "The Canadian Atlantic Touring Club", and "Bikecentennial", now called "Adventure Cycling of America". The L.A.W. would only help if I joined their club. Bikecentennial were very helpfull, sending details of cycle route maps, and The North Face camping equipment catalogue. Canada's Touring Club put me in touch with Gary Conrod of Halifax Velo Club, who is the pioneer manager of the annual "Atlantic Canada Bicycle Rally" in Nova Scotia.

Gary Conrod had cycled many thousands of miles in Canada and America. He sent me four A4 size copies of maps with my route marked with fluorescent hi-liter and gave many places of interest to keep me busy. Looking through The North Face catalogue, I decided on the free standing - three season - two man TADPOLE tent, and a goosedown filled BLUE KAZOO three season sleeping bag. Comparing prices in England with prices in the Bikecentennial catalogue, I could save 50% if I bought the camping equipment in America !.

On 15th April, I took a ride to Manchester Airport, a one hour flight to Amsterdam, eight hour flight to Atlanta , arriving 5pm. Flying West I had gained five hours. It is 130 miles from Atlanta to Greenville which meant finding accommodation for the night. I had planned on cycling eighteen miles North through the city and find a motel. After collecting my bike and panniers at the airport, I was approached by a guy offering help who introduced himself as Ron, the President of the Southern Bicycle League. Ron was about to fly out, but had time to help. I was taken to the airport's MARTA TRAIN STATION, and was told to go North to Brookhaven Station where I was to telephone John, a club member who would give me a bed for the night. John couldn't help, he had family staying, but he would contact another club member. Shortly after, Jim arrived at the station in his MG sports car. His car had a roof rack, but wouldn't take a bike with mudguards (I had left the mudguards on because they do have heavy rain in North America). Jim took my panniers to lighten the load, and I cycled behind to his home a few miles away in Chamblee. After he introduced me to his friend Barbara, we had a meal, then talked cycling for many hours.

The next day after a good breakfast, Jim contacted his boss at English Car Spares Limited to say he had an English visitor, and would be late for work. Jim insisted on taking me out of the city by car, away from the busy multi lane highways. This meant taking off the front mudguard to fix the bike to the rack. When we reached a quiet area, Jim stopped the car at a gas station. And while I was re-fitting the front mudguard and pannier bags, Jim was buying me bananas and a Georgia - South Carolina map. Jim made me promise I would buy a cycle helmet when I reached Greenville, I had left my helmet at home. With the help of kind American cyclists', I had a good start to my first American Adventure.

After checking my position on the map, I was soon on my way to Greenville. I was on a minor road which runs parallel to Interstate 85. After passing through Winder and Jefferson, I stopped at Commerce for a beef & veg lunch, then headed for Lake Hartwell on South Carolina (SC) State Line. After crossing the Hartwell Dam, I used the Anderson by-pass, then came to Interstate 85. Cycling on Interstate Highways is not allowed in SC, and there wasn't any other minor road on the map that I could use without taking a detour. I was 10 miles from Greenville when I telephoned Kath's home for a lift by car. I had cycled 114 miles on my first full day in America. It was 80'f and I was sun burnt.

During the twenty seven days that I stayed at my sister's house, I managed to cycle with the Greenville Spinners Cycle Touring & Racing Club many times. And if I wasn't with the club or family, I was visiting the four bike shops or going on long or short rides alone. April and May in the Carolina's can be wonderful, unlike the hot summer months when everything is burnt. During my stay at Kath's home, my camping equipment was delivered from Bikecentennial in Montana. I had mixed weather, storms, lots of rain, but also lots of sunshine with temperatures between 56 - 85'f.

Let me tell you about some of the cycle rides I did during my stay at my sister's house, and some of the relaxing times with family.

The days following the 114 mile ride from Atlanta airport to Greenville, were not so good. There were two days of storms with temperatures in the 80s, then the next two days....just heavy rain with a cool 56'f. During the four days of rain I had a chance to get to know the family again. We had many meals together in their favourite restaurants, visit the cinema and lots of stores, including a map sales shop. Kath works as a company secretary and invited me to meet her work colleagues during lunch at a restaurant. Kath had told them I would be visiting, but not when I was due to arrive. When she went into work after the weekend, people could tell I had arrived at her home because she was talking with a Liverpool accent again. Kathleen Parker and her husband Allen Hopkins were active members of the Liverpool CTC and the YHA Liverpool Area Club, perhaps you remember them during 1957 - 62 ?. After visiting the bike shops with Kath, I made lots of contacts with club riders and was invited to join them on a Cross State Tour, my plans wouldn't allow me too. From one bike shop I bought ;- touring shoes, track mitts, chain lube, tyre pressure gauge, and front and rear battery lamps to use through the tunnels on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The rear light was a Vista with L.E.Ds, one of the first of this type to be brought into England. I was to use it during my ride of the Mersey Roads Club 24 hour in July, the people who helped feed me during the night had no problem identifying me.

During the several club rides, I was made very welcome. I learned that on some club runs there is a risk of being attacked by dogs, and sometimes people, so it wasn't unusual for one of riders to bring along a hand gun to defend themselves. During an afternoon ride with two racing club members, I was given a club jersey, then taken to see Papa Joe's Place, a big old house that looked like a Gone with the Wind stage set. The scenery along the many back roads in the wet spring days was wonderful. The longest ride I did alone was South to Historic Abbeville, on a hot 78'f day, I cycled 120 easy miles. A much harder ride was North into the hills to Rosman in North Carolina when I did 105 miles, climbing to 3,000 feet. I really needed to do such a ride to strengthen my legs for what was to come.

Gary from Nova Scotia suggested I used the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive at the start of my ride from Kath's home. On May 12th, I was on the move to the Great Smoky Mountains in North Carolina (NC). Kath and family took me by car to Crabtree Meadows camp site on the Blue Ridge Parkway, where we erected my new tent. After saying thank you and goodby to Kath and family, I walked around the quiet camp site, and found only two groups to talk too. The first, a young woman with two children and no husband, who wanted to massage my legs ?. The other, a German male cyclist towing a large Husky dog in a trailer.

Alan with Gary in Halifax, Nova Scotia.

But what about food, you may ask ?. I had brought cooking pots from home, but left them with Kath after realizing it was so cheap to eat in cafes for breakfast, lunch, and evening meals. You could say I spoiled myself.

The Blue Ridge Parkway continues to Skyline Drive. Both are scenic Highways closed to commercial traffic, but not to Motor Caravans. It is a very hilly route which follows the ridge road of the Appalachians Mountains for a total of 575 miles. The highest point on the Blue Ridge Parkway is 6,053 feet, and the lowest is 649 feet. The highest point on Skyline drive is only 3,680 feet. It was like being on a Roller Coaster, slow riding up the long climbs, with my bike and equipment weighing over 85lbs, then very fast downhill. The road surface on both highways are excellent and the bends are gentle. I used the many Park Service Campgrounds, stopping about every 60 miles, sharing with other campers if the grounds were full. I cycled many miles of the Parkway and Skyline Drive with Marie (aged 28) and John (aged 32) from Montreal. They started their cycling adventure in Alaska, and had cycled down the West Coast to Mexico, then across the Southern States to where I met them. When they finally reached home in Montreal, they had cycled 13,000 miles in twelve months.

John & Marie.

"There is a quality in mountains which touches our finer nature. Highland forests immerse us in the eternal rhythm of the natural world ; immense unbounded vistas cause our spirits to expand. Riding the ridges of the Southern Appalachians, the human soul soars freely".

Being high in the mountains the weather was very changeable from day to day.

Let me tell you about some of the good and bad days riding the Parkway. Leaving Crabtree Meadows campground at 7am without a leg massage, I cycled to Little Switzerland for breakfast. Lunch at Linville and on to Julian Price campground having cycled 48miles. The campgrounds have honesty boxes where you leave your details with $8.00. By the box, I was approached by a woman who made a suggestion. There it was again, I can see you guys going to America !. For $8.00. you get a lot of space, big enough for a motor home, so why not share with another small tent ?. I was even invited to dinner, and the next morning during breakfast, welcomed to stay at her home in Montreal. Another tail ; I was heading for Doughton Park Campground the next day, feeling good with myself, when the heavy rain started. I had only cycled 42miles. Taking shelter at Northwest Trading Post with a wet motor cyclist, we enquired about a campground. Raccoon Holler private campground ($12.00.) was very close by and had a cafe next door. When booking in at reception, I was invited to sleep in the church hall. Better than camping in a wet field !. When I asked why the camp site wasn't advertised at the roadside, the receptionist explained to me, No advertisments are allowed on the Parkway.

With all signs restricted, I had problems the next day finding Galax Youth Hostel. Waking to a sunny day, I had breakfast in Lees Restaurant, then visited a church famous for it's Frescoe's (wall paintings from the Bible). Then to Doughton Park where I had lunch with six cyclists' from Washington DC (Distric of Columbia) who were headed for Spartanburg, SC. They had entered the annual Assault on Mount Mitchell in NC, a 102 mile endurance event sponsored by the Spartanburg Freewheelers. Moving on after a long chat, I crossed the state line into Virginia (VA) and started looking for Galax Youth Hostel ($9.66. a night). With there being no signs allowed, I came off the Parkway to the town of Galax and asked for directions. The guys at the fire station were helpful, they contacted Alec the hostel owner, who left an old bicycle on the Parkway between mile post 214 and 215 on the East side, a great help. I was the only visitor untill a woman arrived by car at 2.30am. Yes, 2.30 in the morning. She had driven from Atlanta and was on her way to Ohio (OH) when she needed a rest !!! I needed a rest, so I booked-in for another night and had a lazy day, spending the morning having breakfast at a Galax cafe with Alec and the late visitor. After returning to the hostel in Alec's car, I had lunch in a V W Caravanette, invited by a retired couple, also from Ohio whom I met at Cumberland Knob visitors center during a short cycle ride from the hostel. An English Policeman arrived at the hostel that evening, he had taken a year off and was touring America in an old car.

Back to camping now. North America doesn't have many Youth Hostels, not on my route to Nova Scotia. There are many motels, but travelling alone I would have to pay the price of a room, not practical.

Rocky Knob campground was next with 50 miles that day. Then a fast 60 mile ride to Roanoke Mountain campground, arriving 2.30pm on a hot sunny day. There wasn't a cafe on site, I cycled off the mountain to Roanoke town and eat in Shoney's restaurant for hours. Late that evening the weather changed. It rained all night, all the next day, and the next, and part of the next. It was very cold, temperature dropped from 86'f to 48'f. Cyclists' Marie and John from Montreal, whom I'd met at Rocky Knob were camping close to me. We decided it wouldn't be safe to ride the Parkway in the mist, and we had lost lots of body weight and now had the chance of putting some weight back on. We returned to Roanoke town were we stayed in the Golden Corral restaurant for six hours. Then the next day, the same restaurant for only three hours this time. Eat as much as you can for only $5.31. That's what you call a meal deal !!!

Leaving Roanoke campground on a wet morning, we headed to Peaks of Otter restaurant for lunch. Climbing from 1,000 feet to 4,000 feet, we managed to keep warm. Then during the dry afternoon, we sped downhill for 14 miles to Otter Creek campground and restaurant at 777 feet elevation. We were near the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway when Marie and John invited me to stay with them at June Curry's, "The Cookie Lady" guest house.

Still in Virginia at Otter Creek on the Parkway, we climbed from 649 feet to Yankee Horse Ridge at 3,140 feet elevation, then down to Whetstone Ridge restaurant for lunch. We didn't see any Yankee horses on the ridge road, but we did see two pairs of wild deer. We then came to the end of the Blue Ridge Parkway at Waynesboro and cycled the short distance to June Curry's guest house in Afton on Highway 250.

Let me tell you about the famous June Curry ;- Back in the days when Bikecentennial put together bicycle routes across America, Afton VA was listed as being a refreshment stop. But there wasn't a shop in this small village. Travellers carry emergegency food supplies, but extra water ?. June's house is on the roadside, and she helped by connecting a water hose to an old bicycle placed for all to see in her front garden. Her uncle lived next door, and when he died, June had an idea, she would open-up the spare house to visiting cyclists'. We arrived there on a Wednesday afternoon having cycled 63 miles. June welcomed us by saying "you can stay if I can take a photograph of you for my album ?". This is a self catering guest house, June asked "if you can tell me what food you would like for dinner, I will go by car to the store". After our evening meal, Glenn Davis, a well travelled American cyclist, visited June by car to give a slide show of his 1990 - 1991 six month cycle tour of New Zealand, we all enjoyed the show. When we were cleaning our bikes before leaving for Skyline Drive, June explained to us, she didn't like travel, but enjoyed meeting travellers that visited her. June sold me one of her very own "Home of the Cookie Lady" tee shirts. I found June a warm hearted, very likeable lady, all cyclists' must think the same of June. My partner Barbara often wears the tee shirt.

The next part of my cycling adventure was on Skyline Drive which runs the length of Shenandoah National Park for 105 miles. Within the parks boundaries are 95 miles of the Appalachian Walking Trail. The walking trail is 2,000 miles long, from Georgia (GA) to Maine (ME), and takes six months to complete.

Leaving Afton we climbed to the Parks Southern Entrance, Rockfish Gap at 1,900 feet. There are four campgrounds on Skyline Drive, we headed for Lewis Mountain campground, halfway along the Drive at 50 miles. Being later in the year (Thursday 23rd May), and in an area which is close to Washington DC, there were more people about. We had lunch at Loft Mountain Restaurant then continued uphill for many miles to Lewis Mountain campground (at 3,300 feet) to find it full. But no problem, Dorothy and Carlyle, an elderly couple who we met at Roanoke Mountain campground invited us to pitch our tents alongside their caravan. They were making their way north again to visit family. Dorothy and Carlyle are known in North America as 'SNOW BIRDS'. They had sold their home in Gaylord, Michigan (MI), which is up north on Lake Michigan, and bought a large caravan and towing truck. Snow Birds follow the warm weather, going south in winter, and north in summer. I know of several cyclists' living in Wirral who travel down to Southern Spain every year.

It was strange being on a campground that was full, but it was popular. By now, the weather had improved. Hot sunny days with temperatures close to 80'f., great weather for camping. Leaving Lewis Mountain we went to Panorama Restaurant at Big Meadows for our last lunch together, then climbed to the highest elevation on Skyline Drive at 3,680 feet. Then a fast decent to Thornton Gap at 2,304 ft, taking care on this twisty section, before climbing to Hogback Overlook at 3,385 feet. From here we had 21 miles downhill to Front Royal at 590 feet. This was the end of Skyline Drive, and the end of riding with Marie and John. They were going east to visit friends in Washington, about 70 miles away before continuing their journey home to Montreal, Canada.

Cyclists from Washington DC.

My over-night stop would be in Front Royal, but there wasn't a listed campground there. I didn't want to stay in a Motel, it was ideal camping weather. Wild camping is allowed in some areas, and I had a bike shop address, they may know of a camp location. But the shop was closed, who do I ask now ?. Close by was a fishing tackle and hobbies shop, and I was in luck. The shop owner telephoned his friend Jolene who let me camp in her garden. She was also kind enough to let me use her bathroom the next morning, and there was a food store close by.

If you are planning a bicycle tour or flydrive holiday in America, the Blue Ridge Parkway and Skyline Drive may be for you. Fly to Washington DC or Atlanta, GA. The scenery from the many overlooks is breathtaking, especially the Shenandoah Valley area. Wildlife is everywhere, horses, deer, fox, skunk, bobcat, groundhog, raccoon and chipmunk. Birds are also plentiful, there are about 200 species in the Park. Big birds include wild turkey, grouse and raven. If you go by car, there are many marked trails that you can walk safely. The Parks busy time is in autumn, when the foliage of the many varieties of trees turn gold. If you do decide to cycle the Parkway or Drive, there are several short tunnels, lights are required by law. Also, whether cycling or driving, remove your sun-glasses before entering the tunnels, you might run into the back of another cyclist.

Riding the Parkway and Drive, it was difficult to go off route, I was now on normal roads where I could go wrong. Following Gary Conrod's suggested route, I headed for my next over-night stop by Harpers Ferry, in West Virginia (WV). My first place of interest was at White Post, a small village with a car museum and workshop where vintage cars are restored. Then Berryville for a snack before reaching Charles Town where I had a work-out in the Athletic Clubs Gym. Being a fitness instuctor, I was interested to see what equipment was in American health clubs.

Arriving at Harpers Ferry on a Saturday afternoon wasn't the best time. It was a Public Holiday and the place was crowded. But I had to visit Harpers Ferry and hear the story of John Brown and his band of 21 men - all dedicated abolitionists, who were determined to eliminate slavery forever. On the night of 16th October 1859, Captain Brown and his 21 men controlled the railroad bridge, the depot, the arsenal and armory where 100,000 govenment weapons were stored. He intended to capture the rifles and issue them to his anti-slavery army. Some 36 hours after the raid commenced, it ended dramatically and conclusively when 90 United States Marines under the command of Lt. Col. Robert E. Lee charged the barricaded doors of the fire engine house. In just three minutes, the battle ended. John Brown fell, wounded by a saber slash to his head. He was found guilty of treason, insurrection and murder, and was hung from the gallows in Charles Town on 2nd December.

Harpers Ferry stands at the junction of two rivers, Potomac and Shenandoah. My bed for the next two nights was across the rivers in Knoxville's youth hostel in Maryland (MD). Being close to Washington DC, and on a weekend, it could have been full, but I was OK, there was room, but only just. Donna the manager, was especting a group of 25 cyclists' from DC, they were cycling the nearby Chesapeake & Ohio canal towpath. This is another area for a bicycle tour ;- Return flight to Washington DC, with or without your bike (many bike hire shops). Then a 185 mile ride from Georgetown in Washington DC to Cumberland in Maryland along the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal cycle path. The canal has 74 locks. It had been a hot day-92'f and I had cycled 52 easy miles. What I didn't know at the time, the hot dry weather would last for the next ten days. On my rest day, I walked along the canal path, across the train tracks to the railway bridge footpath and across the rivers into Harpers Ferry. After visiting the famous fire engine house where John Brown was captured, I had an expensive $12 lunch at the Hilltop Hotel. On returning to the hostel that evening, I was invited to join the cyclist for dinner.

After an interesting weekend, I was back on the bike having pancakes and maple syrup for breakfast in a nearby restaurant. Then through Frederick to Taneytown for lunch where I watched a procession go by. Checking my map, I then crossed from Maryland into Eastern Pennsylvania and camped at Codorus State Park for only $6.00. The campground is on the side of Lake Marburg by the town of Hanover. The site was quiet but for two women in a trailer tent who invited me to join them for evening meal and breakfast. Adele and Merby lived closeby in York, and were having a break, leaving their husbands at home. (What are you thinking now, no, but the food was very good). Having a tail wind, and flat roads, I had cycled 66 miles.

Marie and John had looked at my proposed route, and they noticed I would be passing through Intercourse on my way to Allentown. Their friend Jerry lives in Intercourse, and I may get a bed for the night. There were two cities on my route today, York and Lancaster. By using minor roads through Red Lion, and a minor bridge over the wide Susquehanna River, I managed to avoid York. Cycling through Lancaster was OK, then a few small villages ; Bird-in-hand, Smoketown, and then finally after 70 miles, Intercourse. I soon found Jerry's house, and was invited to sleep in their guest room for one night. It was a tough ride, hilly with a head wind. Also bad road surface with a heavier than usual bike, I was carrying four extra National Park Guide Books which I posted home the following day.

During breakfast at Jerry's house I was told about the Amish settlers living in Lancaster county. Intercourse had a special visitors center where I could learn about the Amish way of life. During the 30 minute talk and multi screen slide show at "The Peoples Place", I was told ;- they live on small farms identical to those of their great grandfathers - they only use horse drawn buggies, no cars or tractors - the girls of the family would learn to make cloth and clothes - they had books in their homes, but no cameras or photographs - the men would let their beards grow long - and when building houses, barns, or anything large, the whole community would help each other. They shun 20th century technology. I was that impressed with their way of life, (living at a slow pace, just like enjoyable bike riding) that I asked if it was possible to talk with an Amish person. I was told that their time was taken up working on the farm or in house, but if I visited the book shop in North Hollander Road, Abner the bookbinder may help. We spent two hours talking and drinking tea, then as I was leaving, Abner insisted that I visited the stable and say goodby to his horse. I then returned to Main Street to have lunch in the restaurant before continueing my ride to Geigertown Youth Hostel. During the 30 mile afternoon ride through New Holland, I found the surface tar on the roads melting with the 92'f heat. I had to watch where I was walking if I stopped to take a photograph.

I arrived at Millie Shirey's Youth Hostel ($7.25. a night) in Geigertown to find I was the only visiter. With the hostel being in an interesting area, I decided to stay an extra night and explore the area. Opposite the hostel is Shirey's grocery, hardware store and garage. Millie's husband's hobbie was old steam trains, he had many loco's and coaches which he had bought from Reading. During my recovery day, I cycled only 23 miles visiting French Creek State Park, and later after crossing the river, the museum homestead of the legendary pioneer Daniel Boone. Lunch was taken at Birdsboro by the Schuylkill River, the river which runs through nearby Philadelphia. When I returned to the hostel I learned that today was Millie's 71st birthday. Best wishes to Millie.

My next destination in Pennsylvania was Emmaus by Allentown, the hometown of Rodale Press. Robert Rodale studied English and journalism in college, and at 19 went to work in the family publishing business. His first job was editing a farm magazine and many years later started a theme he calls the Regeneration Project. Rodale have many Regeneration publications such as Preventative, but the reason for my visit was Bicycling magazine. My sister Kath and Ron Hunt, a cycling friend from Greasby, had contacted the editor of Bicycling and asked if I could visit. On my arrival at reception, I was taken to meet Joe Kita, the senior managing editor who was interested in my three month tour of America. I was then taken with my bike to the workshop where bicycles and related products are tested. The mechanics offered me tyres, tubes, and shoes, all free. What was strange, in the current (June 1991) magazine was a guide on how to distribute the load when bicycle camping !!! You guessed it, my bike was loaded correct. After having lunch in their canteen, I thanked everyone then moved on to Quakertown Youth Hostel. On my way to the hostel, I stopped at a Radio Shack dealers in Pennsburg and bought a digital pocket radio and headphones ($60.00.) which I could use if I felt the need for company when camping or hostelling. When I was trying the radio, standing outside the shop, I was told it is against the law to listen to a radio when cycling. After having dinner at a Quakertown diner, I cycled the short distance south to the Weisel Hostel ($5.00.). There was a group of teenagers from a local church staying the night, and I wondered if I would get a bed. All was well, the Vicar agreed to let me share his room. Another hot (92'f) day, cycled 68 miles.

After breakfast I took a photograph of the group, said goodbye and started my day by cycling along tree lined roads alongside Lake Nockamixion. When I reached Kintnersville I headed north and followed the Delaware River and Canal to Easton. Lunch at nearby Martins Creek, then staying on the west side of the river, I continued to Delaware Water Gap. It was a wonderful sight seeing where the Appalachion Mountain Ridge had dropped down to the river. If you are following my route on your map, look for Stroudsburg, Eastern Pennsylvania. When I came to Dingmans Ferry, I crossed the river into New Jersey (NJ) and followed the Old Mine Road to the Youth Hostel ($8.00.). It was Saturday 1st June, in an area which is popular for water sports, and with the hostel being used as a Bird-Banding Station for the Raccoon Ridge Bird Observatory, I would be very lucky if I got a bed. The managers, Patrice and Mike were cyclists', they had cycled around Ireland, and I believe because I was from England and a cyclist, they found me a bed. The hostel was full of mature students and teachers from New York (NY) doing a Course in the Peters Valley Craft Village. The ride today was very fast and enjoyable, it was 85'f. and I had cycled 78 miles but there wasn't food at the hostel for my evening meal. Some hostels have food stores, but this one didn't. I hoped the food I had at lunch time would get me through the night. When the body is starved of food, the system slows down. You must remember I had been eating well every day, my body needed the food to recover.

The morning brought the same problem, no breakfast, but I had a good sleep. Mike the manager asked which direction I was going, there was a good cafe at Milford, just a few miles up the lane on the other side of the Delaware river. You can imagine how hungry I was when I reached the Old Mill Cafe. There was three choices for breakfast, I orded all three. The staff were amazed when I finished all three meals. Feeling a lot more relaxed I cycled into New York state, through Port Jervis to a small village called Huguenot. This must be a French settlement from years ago, I though, and closeby was the Neversink Valley Museum. When I visited the museum to ask about Huguenot (more later), I was told about an English couple who lived a short distance away. After talking with them on the museum's telephone, I was invited to visit. When I think about it, the chance of meeting people from England living in a remote part of New York State, and with it being Sunday, they were home. Can you guess what happened next ?.

It was lunch time and I had only cycled 24 miles when I stopped to say hello to Maggie and Jerry. They had moved to America from South East England back in 1967, and welcomed an English visitor, even if he had a Liverpool accent. Once they got to know me, I was invited to use their house as a base and tour the Upper Delaware Region. During my three day stay I manage to visit the Zane Grey Museum and Roebling's Delaware Aqueduct at Lackawaxen. And when up in the hills by Forestburg, I came across a Ukrainian settlement with three wonderful churches, two made of natural wood, and the other of painted white stone with a golden dome.

Zane Grey. Zane was born 1872 in Zanesville, Ohio, a town his ancestors had founded long ago. As a youth, he developed interests in baseball, fishing and writing, all three brought him acclaim. He studied dentistry and opened a practice in New York, but unhappy with dentistry, Zane frequently escaped to the Upper Delaware River for fishing and relaxation. It was on one of these outings in 1900 that he met Lina who became his wife in 1905. The couple settled in the area and Lina, known as Dolly, gave her husband financial backing and lots of encouragement to become a writer. He was known as the Father of the Western Novel. His best known work, Riders of the Purple Sage was published in 1912, and is considered by many to be the best western novel ever written.

Roebling's Aqueduct. There are many aqueducts in Britain with our many miles of canals, but I didn't expect to find one in New York State at Lackawaxen. Let me tell you about Roebling's Aqueduct which I came across closeby the Zane Grey Museum, it will give you an insight into some of the American industries. Two important local industries with conflicting needs brought about the construction of the Roebling Aqueduct. Timber from throughout the valley was floated down river to the shipyards and industries of Philidelphia and Trenton. By the 1800's timber rafting was the major business of the Upper Delaware River. In the 1820's, coal from North Eastern Pennsylvania's Moosic Mountains was transported to New York City via the Delaware and Hudson Canal. The canal boats crossed the river with the aid of a rope ferry, and they often ran into rafts of timber coming down river. Inevitably there were collisions, fistfights, claims, and counterclaims. Finally, in 1847, the canal directors hired John Roebling to build an aqueduct that would carry their canal over the river. When the canal closed in 1898 the aqueduct was converted into a road bridge. Today the Delaware Aqueduct is the oldest existing suspention bridge in the US which retains its principal elements. It is a forerunner of the Brooklyn Bridge that Roebling and his son were to build in the 1880's. John Roebling was born in Prussia in 1806, and died from an accident at the Brooklyn Bridge site in 1869. His son Washington, completed the Brooklyn Bridge in 1883. When I cycled over the old bridge, I didn't know I was to learn about this part of American History.

Now I go back to Maggie and Jerry's story ;- Maggie is a teacher at a local school, she had been the school bus driver until the accident when the bus brakes failed. Jerry is a travelling salesman, and enjoys restoring old paintings. They live in a small village called Cuddebackville. There had been an old school house, built 1709, next to their home, until the Fire Department decided to knock it down and build a Fire Station on the land. Maggie and Jerry decided to save the old school house and moved it board by board into their side garden. When I arrived at their home, Jerry had been busy cutting down an old tree next to their house ready for winter firewood. He took my offer of help, and we set-too splitting the huge logs of wood by knocking steel wedges in with a heavy sledge hammer. On Monday evening, Maggie did a candlelight barbecue meal on the rear terrace. I was enjoying my meal when I started seeing small flashing lights everywhere, just a few at first, then many more. I didn't like saying anything to my hosts, but I thought there was something wrong with my eyesight. Maggie noticed me rubbing my eyes, and asked if I was OK......the flashing lights were fireflys looking for mates.

During my rest day at Cuddebackville, I managed to do my laundry and send letters and post cards to England. I noticed a set of scales and weighed myself. I was 161 lbs (11st 7lbs) when I left home, I was now 154 lbs (11st), and at the end of the three month bicycle tour - 151 lbs (10st 11lbs). My height is 5ft 10.5ins (1.78m), medium bone, aged 48. During the afternoon there was a storm, the temperature dropped to 65'f. When Maggie returned from school, we went by car to Middletown, to meet Jerry and friend Marcos at a Chinese Restaurant for a meal. When I returned home to England, Jerry contacted me by letter, saying he had business in my area, I invited him to stay at my home.

Leaving Cuddebackville the next day, I headed for Maggie's work colleague's house in Gardiner on my way to the Hudson River and got completely lost. John was also a school teacher and offered to be my host for the next few days. It was a cool 65'f with a forecast for showers all day when I cycled through Highland looking for John's house. Not knowing John's address at that time, I was following Maggies directions, and was told to telephone John about 4.30pm for directions to his house. What John didn't know when he gave me directions over the phone, I had passed his house by many miles. Highland is small, but I found a house and asked Dave for directions. Dave telephoned John and I was taken the 12 miles back to John's house in Dave's car. I had cycled 48 miles.

John lived with friend Eric in a converted mill, a house full of character. They invited me to stay two nights and tour the Shawangunk Mountains, which is close to the Catskill Mountains. It is an area of Southern New York State that is quiet and has wonderful scenery. When talking with John and Eric about how I had come to meet Maggie, it was mentioned that I was interested in the Frence Huguenots. John then told me about New Paltz, a village only a few miles away with a street of stone houses which is the oldest street in America. This I had to see. Let me give you a brief history of the Huguenot People that settled in New Paltz, then about their homes in New York State ;- Huguenots are Frence Prodestants, and were forced to leave France because of their religious beliefs. In 1660, families that would later-on found the settlement of New Paltz began arriving in Wiltwyck, which is now called Kingston. In 1663 there was an Indian Uprising and some of the Huguenot women and children were taken captive. When going to the rescue of the captives, the men noticed the fertility of the Wallkill Valley. By 1675 they had moved two miles west, away from the Hudson River to Hurley. On 26th May 1677, the heads of the twelve families who were to found New Paltz, signed an agreement with the Esopus Indians for 39,683 acres of land. The "Indian Deed" was signed by the heads of twenty three families of the Esopus. I bought a copy of the deed with a transcript. In exchange for the land the Christians would give the Esopus Indians;- 40 kettles, 40 axes, 40 adzes (kind of axe with arched blade at right angles to the handle), 40 shirts, 400 fathoms (1 fathom = 6 feet) of white net-work, 300 fathoms of black net-work, 60 pairs of stockings, 100 bars of lead, 1 keg of powder, 100 knives, 40 kegs of wine, 40 oars, 40 pieces of duffel cloth, 60 blankets, 100 needles, 100 awls (a pricking tool for making shoes), 1 measure of tobacco, and to top it off ;- 2 horses - one stallion and a mare. All this was happening a 100 years before the state of New York came into being.

In the spring of 1678, the twelve families moved about 15 miles South to their land in the Wallkill Valley and after giving thanks to God, made camp on the West side of the stream. The Indians told them to settle on the high ground as the river frequently flooded the entire valley. They soon crossed the river and made their way to the high land, which is now known as Huguenot Street. At first they built log cabins, then by 1692 they had collected enough stone and lumber to build stone houses which resembled those they had left in their native France. By 1712 most of the houses had been enlarged to the size they are now. All the houses are now managed by The Huguenot Historical Society, New Paltz, who helped me enjoy my visit to this remarkable place. Then after lunch, I cycled a few miles uphill to Mohonk Mountain House.

Eric suggested that I visited his place of employment, the famous Mohonk Mountain House, a National Historic Landmark. The house in 1869 was a 10 room tavern owned by John Stokes. Then a Quaker called Alfred Smiley saw it when on a picnic outing to Sky Top. He bought it from Stokes and turned it into what it is today. Mohonk is now a 276 room hotel, set in 7,500 acres of land, a peaceful retreat on a mountain top. During my visit, I walked the trails through the gardens, past Mohonk Lake, then up to the Tower on Sky Top, at 1,542 feet elevation, the views from Sky Top are wonderful. When I returned to the hotel, I enquired if Eric was on duty, no, was the reply, but feel free to look around the hotel. Needless to say, I had a work-out in the Fitness Center. Returning to the Old Mill House, I talked with John, Eric and their girl friends about my wonderful day, sunny, dry but only 28 miles cycled.

Mohawk Mountain House.